North Cascades backcountry riding and camping - March 2008

view photos
With the wife out of town and a free weekend, I decided to introduce our almost 14-month old dog, Coco, to some snow camping and backcountry riding. Her snow exploits had been limited to fooling around in the parking lot at local resorts, and she is exceptional at fooling around. She has great fun digging imaginary things out of the snow, leaping for and sprinting after any thrown snowball, and generally plowing around anywhere she's allowed. But I had yet to take her hiking in the snow, or amidst the elements for more than an hour or so.
I had to pick a destination that met specific criteria:
1) It had to have low angle slopes and preferably treed. Since I was traveling solo I could not expose myself to any meaningful avalanche risk.
2) The trees cannot be too dense. Coco may lose sight of me during descent, I suspected.
3) It had to be accessible. I didn't want to hike more than a hour or two in case Coco got too cold, or I got injured, and quick evacuation was required
4) Directional options would be nice to have. Lee slopes could get nice wind-load, might want to enjoy some south-facing sun, etc.
I opted for the Yodelin area near Stevens Pass resort. It seemed to meet all criteria and I have meant to get up there and explore a bit. Probably not the smartest choice to go somewhere unfamiliar, but it's near an area with which I'm very familiar and getting my bearings would be easy unless there was a complete whiteout.
We left the house on Saturday around 7am and got to the trailhead before 9am. I had hoped some stranger would beat me there and lay down a skin track to show me the way, but no such luck. Only near the top did a couple of skiers appear behind us, and, moving at a rapid clip, pass us by.
Coco started like she was shot out of a cannon. Zipping every which way, just as my brother had warned: she'll expend all of her energy in the first hour. And boy did she waste her energy! Saddled with her doggy backpack with her provisions (and my apres ski shoes), she was running ahead of me, plowing through a 5-7 inch layer of lighter, newer snow, then bounding off to sniff each tree, and so on. As the hike progressed with a rather strenuous and winding climb, she figured out that the path of least resistance lie right behind me, stepping exactly where my snowshoes had stomped, going nice and slow.

We started with a foreboding sign. Not even 75 meters from the parking lot, I stepped into a well of a small tree that had been completely obscured from the surface by snow. The weight of my body, board and large pack, dropped straight down into a snow cavity that was almost exactly the right dimensions for me and my load to fit snugly. I might have fallen down a foot or two above my head if I hadn't stuck my arms out sideways to stop myself. I would not have suffocated, but getting out would have been much tougher if I'd gone deeper. As it was, getting out was a time-sucking, energy-burning chore, and embarrassing on top of it. Some excursion, I thought... not even out of eyesight from the truck...
I always forget something on each and every outdoor trip; even a simple trip to a resort leaves me cursing at some item left behind. This time, it was my watch. No time-telling. So I can only guess that it took about 60-80 minutes of sweaty plodding to gain the ridgetop. The sky was bright and clear, and the SE slope was taking lots of sun. But the east wind was steady and cold, and it kept the surface of the snow from getting heavy and soft. So I opted to ride that side until the wind died down or the sun heated it up, neither of which happened. I put in about 12-15 laps on a otherwise untouched 800 foot pitch. Nothing impressive about the vertical, but the snow was cold and very slightly wind-packed, which made for some super fun banking turns.
Coco held up rather well. On the first descent, I told her to "cmon" repeatedly during the first 30 meters as I gained speed, and she picked up the obvious idea to follow me, bounding and pumping through the snow like crazy. I stopped at the bottom and praised her mightily for going to all that trouble to follow me, but she seemed to love it. We trod the same boot pack path back up throughout the day, and eventually, she figured out that the easiest way to meet me at the bottom was to veer from the launch spot toward that boot track, as she'd figured out that I would end up there, too. Very sharp, this pup...
I can only guess that it was around 4pm when she started sending the non-verbal signals that she was done for the day. Purposeful steps, slight shivers at the ridgeline where the wind whipped a bit at times, a sort of morose look in her eyes that she normally reserves for telling me she needs to go outside right away. I got the idea, and I had not eaten lunch anyhow, so we descended back down the north side of the ridge into some trees that would protect from the wind. I was pleased to find the snow in exceptional condition, and even deeper wind-loads than I had remembered from the ascent in the morning. Just as I dropped my pack at the chosen spot, I noticed that the clouds had crept in from the west - the direction in which my view of the horizon had been somewhat limited by the topography. The forecast indicated that a small storm would arrive in the early evening, bringing "less than an inch in accumulation" overnight, and it was here. I had gotten lucky with the timing, because as I started to dig a snow horseshoe for the tent, Coco had hunkered down near the base of a tree and started to shiver without any direct sun to help warm her.
Digging the horseshoe/cave and setting up the tent took about 30 minutes, even with a cold dog rooting me on from under a tree limb. Once inside the tent, I realized that, in my haste, I had not made the floor beneath the tent suitably flat (or flat at all, for that matter). Very uncomfortable. Plus, Coco quickly realized how much more nicer my foam-cell sleeping pad was than the pad that I'd brought for her, and she persisted in trying to weasel her way onto it whenever she could. Not to mention her interest in being nestled under my down sleeping bag, which was entirely understandable. I obliged by relinquishing the top half of the bag to her entirely, while a puffy down jacket kept my top half warm.
Dinner was comprised of a baggy of granola and a pot of soup that claimed, to my bemusement, to produce "4 servings". I found it ample for one hungry belly, no more. Just as with most other backpacking trips, I expected to go to bed just after dark. I had planned accordingly by not rushing to bed on Friday night; even with 5 hours' sleep I could make it until dark on Saturday night, likely around 8pm. Wrong. After that soup hit bottom, the snoring dog beckoned me with her wheezes of blissful warmth to lay down, and my cramping quads and full belly were in full agreement. I didn't even wash the pot, I hit the wall. I crashed hard, just as the cloudy dusk and wind arrived.
I woke many times throughout the night, as I usually do when sleeping in the wilderness. Moon monitoring, star gazing, situating the sleeping bag, pee breaks, and so on. But Coco woke me often. When the slippery down sleeping bag slid off her back or leg or whatever, she'd burrow into me, usually pushing me off the sleeping pad and out of the grooves in the tent floor in which I'd found a modicum of comfort. Lots of shoving and situating followed such rude gestures.

The wind really picked up as the night wore on, and I heard very powerful gusts in our vicinity. But because we were in a protected area, it was the odd sensation of hearing and knowing a very strong wind, but never feeling it. When the snow started to fall at night, it was coming angled by the wind. The howling whoosh within earshot of the ridge was memorable.

When I woke for good in the morning, it was fully light but gray and snowing steadily. A few inches had fallen around the tent, but looking out from our camp to the open slope, I could see lots of snow blowing over the ridge persistently. The new accumulation was doubled-down (or more) by the wind-transport effect. Gravy.
Since I would have more snow than I could likely handle in a day, with no competition for it, and a groggy Coco nuzzled deep under the bag, I took my time getting going in the morning. Even with my leisurely pace, I still ended up taking about an hour longer to get out than I preferred. I had erred with the coffee, and it was time-intensive to repair. While the first pot of snow-water came to a boil, I readied my mug with the instant coffee. Whilst packing up on Friday night, I had combined two separate stashes of instant coffee that I discovered in the bin of camping gear. One stash looked normal (or at least as far as instant coffee goes), while the other stash had formed into a clod, and turned nearly black. I fished out the old black clod from the combined stashes and dropped into my empty mug, awaiting the hot water. I had at least 10 minutes to rethink this error, and it never occurred to me until I was in the process of filling the mug. Oh, damn, that's gonna be strong. I dumped in a bit of powdered creamer (hazelnut!) and sampled. Acid! Black paint-thinner! Hell in a mug! Pucker face! Rather than fill the mug with water and add instant coffee to flavor, I'd committed a full mug of boiled water (and the camping gas required to heat it) to a dark potation of death. I had no choice but to boil more water and dilute the tar until it became bearable, and even then I had 2.5 full mugs of barely drinkable horse-nostril strength sludge. Only dumping in every last bit of hazelnut creamer made me able to endure it, but the yummy factor of the hazelnut had been canceled out.
Coco did not want to leave the tent when it was time. She was warm and resting, so I thought I'd just leave the tent up, with the sleeping bag and pad in there, and let her be. I went to lap the adjacent slope, with plans to check on her frequently. I set off, but as soon as I got out of her earshot, she roused and popped out of the tent and hurried to catch up. She was wiser this time, minimizing her forays away from the snowshoe track behind me. But she was squirrelly and active, and again enjoying the snow. And there was lots of it to enjoy. I think there were 6-7 inches on the aspect I skied , perhaps upto 9 inches or so in some wind pillow spots. I would have liked to have a comrade in tow, as I suspected the steeper pitches nearby would be fun. But we stuck to terrain with very low avy risk, and made about 10 laps or so of about 600-700 meters each. Again, nothing mind-blowing about the vert, but really fun cold blower powder.
The snow never stopped. Working backwards in estimation, I called it a day around 1:30pm, and returned to pack up a very snow-covered tent. Snowboarding back down to the trailhead with a very heavy pack was a trick, particularly because of the required frequent stops to allow Coco to catch up. She was straggling a bit, but still hustling. Down near the trailhead, at about 3750 feet, the depth of the new snow was no more than 3-4 inches, and it was heavy. Coco could no longer plow the pow; she was trundling in mashed potatoes with heaving breath. She was spent.
We were at the truck by 3pm, and in Gold Bar for a burger at the Prospector's Inn around 4pm. I was peeved that they were out of chili, because the chili cheeseburger there is a great gut-bomb after a strenuous day in the snow.
Labels: backcountry, camping, Coco, snow, snowbaording, touring







